Belly up to the bar for frugal fine dining

Barbara Yost
The Arizona Republic
Jul. 14, 2004 12:00 AM

Dining with the Valley's top chefs might seem out of the question. Haven't gas prices and air-conditioning bills already zapped your wallet?

Take heart. There are ways to enjoy fine cuisine even when budgets are tight. What it takes is going at the right time or choosing the bar area with tasty pub food. The quality is the same.

Here's a sampling:

Vincent's on Camelback and Vincent's Market Bistro: The trick is to go for lunch for all the accoutrements (those petite croissants!) at smaller prices. In the fine-dining room, choose Dungeness crab cakes with avocado corn salsa, $9.75; saut?ed beef tenderloin with Burgundy wine and pearl onions, $14; saut?ed salmon on smashed potatoes with chives, $12. In the new bistro behind the restaurant, try Vincent's Signature Panini, $7; pesto pasta, $7.50; salad ni?oise, $8. Vincent's is open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays. The bistro is open from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m. Mondays through Fridays, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. 3930 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix. (602) 224-0225.

Christopher's Fermier Brasserie: In Christopher's, eat from a bar menu of burgers, cheese platters, pizzas and crostini costing $8.95 to $14.95. During happy hour, those prices are about half, and wine (there are 100 wines by the glass) is half price. Happy hour is from 3 to 6:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays. The real bargain is "Late Night Leftovers," a daily special gleaned from the day's offerings and served from 10 p.m. to midnight Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The selection might be roast chicken, hanger steak with french fries or "whatever we decide it will be," chef Christopher Gross says. All at one price, usually $9.95. 2584 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix.(602) 522-2344.

Citrus Cafe: You don't have to sit in the bar to get bargains at Citrus Cafe. Chef Dennis Delamater offers "small plate" items, half portions of high-end selections from his regular dinner menu for petite prices. Choose from a revolving menu of such offerings as lamb shank cassoulet, shrimp and scallop scampi, chicken pistachio and sweetbreads for $6 to $10. Open for dinner at 5 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Reservations required. 2330 N. Alma School Road, Chandler. (480) 899-0502.

Eddie Matney's: Eat cheap in Eddie's bar. Try the egg rolls with peanut dipping sauce, four for $5; habanero barbecued ribs with sweet onion shoestrings, $6; sumac-grilled lamb chops with mint hummus, $7; Mo'Rockin Shrimp With Honey Dough Balls, $6. 4-11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 4-midnight Fridays and Saturdays. Closed Sundays. 2398 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix. (602) 957-3214.

Roaring Fork: Sit in the bar and chow down on selections from the Saloon Menu, including the Big Ass Burger, a 12-ounce hamburger big enough to share, $10; green chile pork stew, $8; chicken wings with pepper sauce, $7.50; and Frito Pie, chili with Fritos corn chips, $7.50. Offered 7-10 p.m. daily. Prices are even cheaper during happy hour, 4-7 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. These items are not available in the dining room. 4800 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale. (480) 947-0795.

Zinc Bistro: This French bistro's "Off Hour Menu" is the way to go. Favorites include roasted Dungeness crab and mushroom cr?pe, $14; house-smoked salmon savory cr?pes, $10; Croque Monsieur (a ham and cheese sandwich with bechamelsauce), $10; escargot with puff pastry, $10. The menu is available from 3 to 5 p.m. and 10 p.m. to midnight daily. 15034 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale. (480) 603-0922.

Reach the reporter at (602) 444-8597